The elegant makeover of LA’s Kaiseki Restaurant

Two-star Michelin restaurant in Palms neighborhood recently hosted ‘Shōgun’ premiere party

For more than a dozen years, n/naka chef Niki Nakayama has been revered among LA restaurant masters and Hollywood audiences alike as a master of the kaiseki style of dining – the elaborate Japanese interpretation of a seasonal tasting menu. If you can snag a reservation, which isn’t always easy, it might be time for a return trip, as n/naka has just unveiled a revamped dining room that offers a tranquil and luxurious backdrop for diners enjoying the 13 courses, nearly four o’clock kaiseki experience.

Nakayama, who co-founded n/naka with her sous chef and wife Carole Iida-Nakayama, was featured in the first season of Netflix’s ‘Chef’s Table’ in 2015 – the only female chef in that season – and the restaurant was awarded two Michelin stars . stars in 2019. As their reputation grew, the unassuming spot on Overland Avenue in LA’s sleepy Palms neighborhood became one of the city’s most in-demand reservations.

In February, n/naka welcomed the cast of “Shōgun” for a breathtaking dinner where menu dishes related to characters from the FX series. It’s long been a favorite of stars, from Kiernan Shipka and Sophia Bush to Charlize Theron and Mindy Kaling.

But now, after 13 years of building their influence, one beautifully presented dish at a time, it was time for a refresh of the intimate room that previously offered a rather austere setting compared to the jewel-like presentations on the plate. Certainly, the stately progress of kaiseki dining, unobtrusively knowledgeable service and top level ingredients were the point of the experience, not the decor, but now all the elements have been brought into harmony.

The updated space is constructed entirely of golden wood, soft lighting and curved lines, creating an intimate series of rooms that transport diners to a tranquil Cali-Japanese inn deep in the countryside.

Minoru Oyamatsu of Tokyo’s Oyamatsu Design Studio and LA builder Beau Laughlin, founder of Framework, led the redesign, with architect Takashi Yanai as consultant. All new tables and chairs, carved from black walnut and ergonomically designed to be comfortable for many courses, were created by Mario Correa and Zen Sekizawa of Mano Ya, while the warm woodwork was crafted by Studio:Rah.

Every detail subtly communicates the restaurant’s intention to merge “a Japanese heart with a Californian spirit.” The modest door on Overland Avenue opens to a serene path paved with rocks collected in the California desert, with a large, upright stone making a powerful statement as customers enter the dining room. The center wall is covered with handmade washi paper, while a Japanese copper vase hangs in an arched opening.

Kaiseki The cuisine is closely dependent on the seasons Variety got a taste of the room renovation with a taste of the current late spring menu. The 13 courses include live scallops, vermilion rockfish, Ishiyaki lobster with uni and wild morels, a generous selection of nigiri sushi and two delicate desserts. Shiizakana – spaghetti with abalone, truffle and pickled cod roe – is n/naka’s decadent, comforting signature dish that remains on the menu regardless of the season. Each course follows a set progression determined by kaiseki tradition, and each dish is presented in a uniquely varied vessel, from blown glass to shells, ceramics, stones and lacquerware. The wine and sake pairing features Japanese winemakers working in France, rare sakes and a Bordeaux blend perfectly selected for the delicate, buttery A5 Miyazaki Wagyu beef dish.

“We want guests to feel completely transported when they step into n/naka,” says Nakayama, “and forget all the stress, noise and discomfort of the outside world. When you attend a Japanese tea ceremony, the space is always minimal, quiet, serene – almost meditative. That environment helps you notice small details, appreciate beauty and really be present in the moment, which is what we want our guests to do when they come to our restaurant.”

“We have grown enormously over the past thirteen years. We feel different now as chefs and as people, and we’ve focused so much on our craft in the kitchen. We are proud of the progress our cooking and food have made, and we wanted our space to reflect that evolution,” says Iida-Nakayama.

With the new design and an impact that continues to grow — including the opening of their izakaya-style n/soto two years ago in Mid-City — the trailblazing chefs bring a deeply thoughtful approach to the city’s restaurant scene.